Leopard geckos are obligate insectivores. That’s not a dietary preference — it’s millions of years of evolution hardwired into their biology from hunting small invertebrates across the rocky deserts of South Asia and Afghanistan. If you’ve ever watched one stalk a cricket across a tile floor, you’ve seen a compact predator doing exactly what it was built to do.
The feeding side of leopard gecko keeping is genuinely one of the simpler parts of the hobby. You’re working with a short ingredient list, clear supplementation rules, and a schedule that gets less demanding as your gecko matures. The complexity comes from the nuances — calcium-to-phosphorus ratios, gut-loading quality, supplement frequency — that separate a gecko thriving at 15+ years from one developing metabolic bone disease at 3.
This guide covers everything: the feeders that actually make sense as staples, how often to feed at each life stage, how to supplement correctly, and the foods that should never get anywhere near your gecko’s enclosure.
Key Takeaways
- Leopard geckos are strict insectivores — no fruit, vegetables, or plant matter
- Best staple feeders are dubia roaches and crickets; mealworms work as supplements, not staples
- Dust every feeding with calcium; add D3 twice per week for geckos without a UVB lamp
- Feeding frequency drops with age: daily for hatchlings, every 2–3 days for adults
- Gut-loading feeders 24–48 hours before offering them makes a bigger nutritional difference than any supplement alone
What Leopard Geckos Eat in the Wild
In their native range across Pakistan, Afghanistan, India, and Iran, leopard geckos hunt at dusk and dawn, targeting whatever invertebrates are small enough to swallow: crickets, beetles, moths, centipedes, and other insects. They’re opportunistic — they take what the desert offers — but the common thread is always live invertebrate prey.
Understanding this matters because it shapes everything about how you feed them in captivity. Their digestive system is calibrated for protein-dense prey with an exoskeleton. They have no mechanism for processing plant cellulose, sugars from fruit, or commercially prepared “reptile salads.” If a leopard gecko eats plant matter, it gets nothing useful from it — and in some cases it actively interferes with calcium uptake.
Best Feeder Insects for Leopard Geckos
Not all insects are equal. The right feeder has a good calcium-to-phosphorus ratio, manageable fat content, and enough nutritional density to genuinely fuel your gecko’s health — not just fill its stomach.
Dubia Roaches (Best Overall Staple)
Dubia roaches have become the gold standard for insectivorous reptile feeding over the past decade, and for good reason. Their calcium-to-phosphorus ratio is better than most insects (~1:3), they’re high in protein (around 23%), relatively low in fat, and they can’t climb smooth surfaces or chirp — both quality-of-life wins for keepers. A colony of dubias can supply a single gecko indefinitely with minimal investment.
Source nymphs (juveniles) no longer than 2/3 of the space between your gecko’s eyes — that’s the universal sizing rule for any feeder insect. Too large and the gecko can’t swallow it cleanly; repeated attempts with oversized prey cause stress and regurgitation.
Crickets (Reliable Second Staple)
Crickets are the default for most gecko keepers because they’re available at every pet store and trigger a strong feeding response — the movement and chirping activates the hunt drive in a way a sedentary roach sometimes doesn’t. Nutritionally they’re comparable to dubias, though their chitin content is slightly higher, which can cause digestive issues in large quantities.
The main complaint about crickets is practical: they escape, they smell, they die quickly if not cared for, and a sick cricket can introduce parasites. Buy smaller quantities more often rather than letting them age in a bin, and gut-load for at least 24 hours before feeding.
Mealworms (Supplement, Not Staple)
Mealworms are extremely popular — available everywhere, easy to store in the fridge, and most geckos love them. They’re also high in fat (around 12–14%) and have a poor calcium-to-phosphorus ratio (~1:7). Fed as a staple, mealworms will slowly compromise your gecko’s health through accumulated fat deposits and calcium deficiency.
Use them as an occasional treat — 1 or 2 at the end of a feeding session — or as a tool for getting a picky gecko eating again. Never make them more than 20–25% of the diet.
Waxworms (Treats Only)
Waxworms are the leopard gecko equivalent of ice cream: geckos go wild for them, they have almost no nutritional value, and a gecko that develops a waxworm preference will refuse everything else. Fat content is around 22%. Offer them once every 2–3 weeks as a reward or to stimulate appetite during brumation recovery — that’s it. Never more than 3 at a time.
Hornworms (Good Hydration Boost)
Hornworms are large, soft-bodied caterpillars with high water content (~85%) and a genuinely good calcium-to-phosphorus ratio. They’re excellent for dehydrated geckos or during shedding periods when extra hydration helps. They spoil quickly at room temperature but are worth ordering online for the hydration benefit. Rotate them in occasionally rather than relying on them as a staple.
Black Soldier Fly Larvae (Calci-Worms)
Sold under names like Repashy Calci-Worms or NutriGrubs, BSFL have an exceptional calcium-to-phosphorus ratio (~1.5:1 — better than any other commonly available feeder) and moderate protein content. They’re a useful supplementary feeder that reduces your reliance on dusting. Some geckos are initially reluctant due to the unfamiliar wriggling, but most come around with repeated offerings.
How Often to Feed a Leopard Gecko by Age
Feeding frequency is one of the things new keepers consistently get wrong — usually by feeding too often, too much, or not adjusting the schedule as the gecko grows. Here’s the schedule that matches metabolic rate at each life stage.
| Age | Feeding Frequency | Feeder Size | Amount Per Session |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hatchling (0–2 months) | Every day | 1/4 inch (6mm) crickets or pinhead dubia | 5–8 insects |
| Juvenile (2–12 months) | 5×/week | 3/8 inch (10mm) crickets or small dubia | 6–8 insects |
| Sub-adult (12–18 months) | Every 2 days | 1/2 inch (12mm) crickets or medium dubia | 6–8 insects |
| Adult (18 months+) | Every 2–3 days | 3/4 inch (18mm) crickets or large dubia | 6–8 insects |
Feed in the evening — leopard geckos are crepuscular and their appetite peaks at dusk. Offering food in the middle of the afternoon often results in zero interest and leaves uneaten insects wandering the enclosure all night, stressing the gecko. Remove any uneaten feeders after 20–30 minutes.
How to Gut-Load Feeder Insects
Gut-loading is the process of feeding your feeder insects nutritious food in the 24–48 hours before you offer them to your gecko. The nutritional content of the insect passes directly to the reptile — a cricket that’s been surviving on cardboard delivers almost nothing; a cricket that’s been eating collard greens and bee pollen is a genuinely good food source.
Gut-load quality has a bigger impact on your gecko’s long-term health than any supplementation protocol. You can use commercial gut-loading products (Repashy Bug Burger, Fluker’s High Calcium cricket diet) or go DIY with high-calcium greens.
- Excellent choices: Collard greens, dandelion greens, kale, mustard greens, butternut squash, sweet potato, bee pollen, spirulina powder
- Acceptable: Romaine lettuce, carrot, apple (small amounts), oats
- Avoid: Spinach, broccoli, cabbage (interfere with calcium absorption); anything high in oxalic acid; citrus
Give feeders at least 24 hours with the gut-load before you offer them. 48 hours is better. Remove any uneaten gut-load before it molds.
Calcium and Vitamin Supplementation
Leopard geckos kept indoors without UVB exposure cannot synthesize vitamin D3 from light the way they would in the wild. Without D3, they can’t absorb dietary calcium regardless of how much is in the diet. The result is metabolic bone disease (MBD) — soft bones, bowed legs, tremors, jaw deformities. It’s entirely preventable and entirely devastating to see in an animal you’ve kept for years.
Standard supplementation protocol for indoor geckos without UVB:
- Every feeding: Dust feeders with plain calcium powder (no D3). Roll the insects in the powder just before offering — a light coating is enough.
- 2× per week: Use calcium + D3 supplement instead of plain calcium.
- Once per week: Use a multivitamin powder (Repashy, Herptivite) to cover trace nutrients.
If your gecko has quality UVB (T5 HO 5.0 or equivalent), you can reduce D3 supplementation — UVB allows them to synthesize their own. When in doubt, keep supplementing. The cost of maintenance D3 at this schedule is negligible compared to a vet visit for MBD.
Many keepers also leave a small shallow dish of plain calcium powder loose in the enclosure. Leopard geckos will self-regulate and lick it when they sense a need. This is an excellent safety net, not a replacement for dusting feeders.
Water and Hydration
Leopard geckos are desert animals but they still need consistent access to fresh water. Provide a shallow dish at all times — shallow enough that a hatchling couldn’t drown, changed every 1–2 days to prevent bacterial growth. Geckos drink more than most keepers expect, especially during shedding.
Dehydration shows up as wrinkled or dull skin, difficulty shedding, and reluctance to eat. If you suspect dehydration, a 20–30 minute warm water soak (water depth to the ankle, not deeper) resolves mild cases quickly. Hornworms in the diet also help during periods of poor water intake.
Foods Leopard Geckos Should Never Eat
This list matters more than most “avoid” lists because these aren’t just less-ideal options — some can actively harm or kill a gecko.
- Any plant matter (fruits, vegetables, greens) — leopard geckos cannot digest plant material; it provides nothing and crowds out real food
- Fireflies / lightning bugs — contain lucibufagins, a cardiac toxin; a single firefly can kill a gecko
- Wild-caught insects — carry pesticide residues and parasites; never use insects from your garden
- Avocado — contains persin, toxic to most reptiles
- Pinky mice — sometimes recommended online as “a treat”; the protein and fat ratios are completely wrong for a leopard gecko’s metabolism — they’re not vertebrate hunters
- Mealworm beetles — the adult form of the mealworm; the hard exoskeleton can cause impaction
Signs Your Leopard Gecko Is Eating Well
A well-nourished leopard gecko has a plump, rounded tail (the primary fat reserve — you want it wide, not pinched), clear and alert eyes, firm muscle tone along the body, a clean vent, regular shedding with no retained shed, and consistent interest in food at feeding time.
Tail width is the single best at-a-glance health indicator. A gecko with a thin, limp, or pencil-thin tail is drawing down on fat reserves — from not eating enough, eating the wrong things, illness, or stress. A gecko with a thick, rounded tail that’s actively hunting at feeding time is almost certainly in good condition.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can leopard geckos eat fruit?
No. Leopard geckos are obligate insectivores and have no ability to digest plant sugars or cellulose. Offering fruit isn’t just nutritionally useless — it can cause digestive problems and encourage the gecko to ignore its proper food.
How long can a leopard gecko go without eating?
A healthy adult can survive 2–3 weeks without eating, drawing on fat reserves in the tail. Juveniles and hatchlings have much smaller reserves. If your gecko refuses food for more than a week, investigate the cause: temperature, stress, incomplete shed, parasites, or illness. Don’t just wait it out without checking conditions first.
Are mealworms bad for leopard geckos?
Not dangerous, but not ideal as a staple. Their high fat and poor calcium-to-phosphorus ratio make them a treat-tier feeder. Rotate them in as a supplement — 1 or 2 at the end of a feeding — not as the main event.
Do leopard geckos need live food?
Yes, in practice. Leopard geckos are hunt-triggered feeders — movement activates the feeding response. Most won’t eat anything that isn’t moving. Some individuals can be transitioned to canned insects with tong feeding, but live prey is the default and the easier path.
How many crickets should I feed my leopard gecko?
The standard recommendation is roughly 2 appropriately sized insects per 2.5 cm (1 inch) of body length, or 6–8 insects per feeding for most adults. Watch the tail thickness over time — thinner tail means feed more; visible lethargy or fat deposits means scale back slightly.
What’s the difference between calcium with D3 and without?
Plain calcium provides the mineral but not the vitamin needed to absorb it. D3-supplemented calcium covers both. For indoor geckos without UVB, D3 supplementation twice a week is essential. With quality UVB lighting, the gecko synthesizes D3 itself and you can reduce D3 supplement frequency — most keepers continue it regardless as insurance.
What do I do if my leopard gecko stops eating?
Check conditions first: warm side should be 30–32°C (87–90°F), cool side 24–26°C (75–78°F). A cool enclosure shuts down appetite fast. Next, check for retained shed, injuries, or signs of parasites (loose stools, weight loss despite eating). Winter brumation can cause natural appetite reduction. If conditions are correct and the gecko has been off food for more than 2 weeks, a vet visit is warranted.
How does a leopard gecko’s diet affect lifespan?
Directly and significantly. The biggest diet-related lifespan killers are metabolic bone disease from inadequate calcium/D3, obesity from too many fatty feeders (mealworms, waxworms), and malnutrition from feeders that weren’t gut-loaded. A gecko on a well-managed insect diet with proper supplementation regularly lives 15–20 years. For more on what affects lifespan, see our guide to leopard gecko lifespan.
For a complete picture of leopard gecko keeping beyond diet — housing, heating, handling, and health monitoring — see our complete guide to leopard gecko care. For how the leopard gecko diet compares across other species we keep, our complete reptile diet guide covers every animal in our collection. And if you want to see a leopard gecko eat in person before committing to one as a pet, our reptile experience visits are a much better basis for a decision than any amount of online research.